Cusco and The Inca Trail

The beautiful courtyard setting, the comfortable beds, and free breakfast where a real effort had been made (guacamole and whole wheat bread as standard, and a reasonable 5 soles to add on eggs/muesli/pancakes etc.). Yes, Ecopackers had done everything right to put us in good spirits as we prepared to hit the Inca Trail - holiday highlight, most expensive item in our tour travel bag, and the thing we were most keen to enjoy as a result. With that kind of expectation, Ecopackers helped put us at ease. It's part of a new breed of hostels which offer a fully integrated experience. In addition to the above, they offer meals during the day, a bar, a tv room with slouchy beanbags and a massive cinematic-TV, plus a back entrance to a tour agency for the sights and onward travel. Hell, they even tag you with a festival style bracelet and put on barbecue nights and football matches to draw you in. Loki, Wild Rover, there are numerous guys getting in on the act, but with a slightly de-emphasised party atmosphere compared to the other two mentioned, we hoped to get all the good stuff AND some sleep at Ecopackers. And we did, so job done.

Cusco´s busy central square

The central square of Cusco is a beautiful affair, with two massive churches: one in fact being a chapel, temple and cathedral joined into one. Arched colonnades flank the cobbled stones at each side of the plaza, sheltering tourist shops and numerous bars, restaurants and night clubs for Cusco's surprisingly raucous nightlife. Like Arequipa before it (and in marked opposition to Copacabana aftwerwards), Cusco's going out scene did seem very integrated with locals and when Mhairi and I ended up in these bars post-trek, we joined Peruvians and a cross-section of travellers knocking back Cusquena beer and pisco sours.


All that was to come later. First we had to do the Inca Trail to earn our rest and relaxation. And before that, culture, dammit. We reasoned we couldn't go on the trail without learning more about the context. So we bracketed the Incan experience to come with two sights - the pre-Columbian museum of art and the colonial awesomeness of the main cathedral. Both were incredible in their own way.

The art museum treats the pottery, jewellery, ceramics and wood-carving of the South American civilisations as art rather than primitive archaeological relics. The mastery of abstract form that some tribes achieved pre-dated European art by centuries. Quotations by the 'primitivists', such as Gauguin and Monet, are woven between the exhibits that can look strikingly sophisticated - clean line and form patterns; representational rather than realistic works and a very high quality of workmanship. A lot of it looked, well, modern. Two-tone vases stressing the perfection of shape in muted black and cream colours was something you'd quite happily put in John Lewis for punters today. The Viru and Mochica sculptures impressed us most. Tubby little figures with expressive faces: some with the long drooping earlobes of higher caste representations. Then there were llama headed vases, and condor headed ones, and pumas - all wrought with an eye for pleasing shape and substance. And then there was the gold - golden necklaces, ear studs, brooch pins. Gold was relatively plentiful to these people, and so its value to represent and reflect the sun was a ceremonial worth, and high craftsmanship in its working valued more aesthetically and culturally than anything else. Intricate small works were mixed alongside carefully moulded golden jugs and cups. It would take the European conquest to convert gold to a commodity and means of exchange, where its scarcity across the Atlantic meant that any block of the metal commanded a high material price. It was then that the cultural element fell away, as the white man demanded more, and the locals had to produce. Altogether, the museum is an incredibly interesting and engaging way to look at highly advanced societies of the period, about whom so much knowledge has been lost. There was also a kick-ass looking restaurant on its ground floor, but Mhairi pointed out that we were on a budget, so I sighed an agreed to pass it by...

Returning to losing knowledge of the native South American peoples, nothing made that so evident as the cathedral in the central square. This mega-structure took around 70 years to complete and it was built by destroying Incan sites, plundering the stone to build the cathedral's massive walls and huge vaulted arches. There is no tenderness in this church, it is all about the demonstration of power. Paintings even depict the trampling of Incan natives by Spanish conquistadors on horseback, a godly light shining on their efforts. We spent some time in awe at the weird mix of insecurity, arrogance and huge endeavour that the cathedral represented, before leaving. We are fortunate indeed that Macchu Picchu was only discovered by Europeans in the 20th Century (locals of course always having known of its existence). Had the Spanish found it while cementing their colonisation of the Altiplano, it would have been turned to rubble.

The Trail

Our team for the Inca Trail

The day came for the Inca Trail to begin. We'd had a briefing the night before, but with the anticipation all I could remember was the pick up time of 5.40. After two 4.30am starts for the geyser fields of the Atacama, 5.40 was child's play. Mhairi and I were alert and ready to go as the minibus pulled up to our hostel and we clambered in to meet our fellow trekkers. Introductions had been done the night before, but were quick. We had a journey of two hours to Ollantaytambo for breakfast and last minute provisions (coca leaves, alpaca socks etc.) followed by another hour and a half to Piscocucho, the start of the trail, which was more than enough time to get acquainted, in between stolen naps at the early start. And I can say quite happily that we were very lucky and that everyone in our group had a great personality: by the time we hit the trailhead we were cracking jokes together and sharing stories. Mhairi and I could feel that we were a little advanced in years compared to the rest of our team. We were the only ones to have breached the 30 mark (whatever that is meant to signify) but in any case, with sparky and mature heads on all members of the group and everyone's general good sense of humour, it didn't matter. It did mean that Mhairi's big reveal of her age later on was indeed a shock, especially to our guide who perhaps unkindly asked her to repeat it as he thought he'd mis-heard. No-one was shocked at how old I said I was. I said I was only thirty by mistake though: that extra year quietly forgotten at the time.

Ramiro: knew his stuff

The 5 hours of Day 1 rolled by, with high spirits and great views. Our guide Ramiro displayed his encyclopaedic knowledge of the trail, pointing out different plants used by the Incas for food, medicine, dyes and so on. As we hit some smaller Incan settlements, he would slowly release information about the customs, society and really, the ingenuity of the people who ruled a massive empire from Quito to Santiago and across the Altilplano for a hundred years. Before you think that's impressive, it's worth noting that there were no horses in South America until Europeans introduced them. The fastest that information could travel was by a man, running. For the 2000 mile stretch of Quito to Cusco, a system of relay runners carried information in a little under three weeks: for the 42km mountainous Inca trail that would take us three days to complete, the runners could manage in three hours. These and other amazing facts Ramiro would calmly relay over our trek, building up to the architectural wonder that is Macchu Picchu.

Cholita with her pack horses

Day 2 arrived and with it some sense of trepidation. We would climb 1200m before lunch. Our biggest ascent in a day had previously been at Torres del Paine up Valle Frances: 700m up to 2100m which can be done without backpacks as it is a 'there and back again' deal. Here we were starting at 3000m where the altitude already presses some weight onto your chest. Most of the group decided to take a porter at this stage if they had not already done so, particularly as we were running a slightly modified trek that would go on past the 4200m mark, drop down 1000m and then climb again to a second pass at 3700m before a descent to our campsite for the night. Over 9hrs of altitude trekking was before us and for whatever reason, Mhairi and I held on to our rucksacks. With 7months of traveling to budget for, 100 soles for a porter to carry our packs seemed profligate, and we had carried our packs through Stok pass in Ladakh, Northern India at 4000m despite really struggling then.

Views early on did not disappoint...

And you know what? We were fine. We've both toughened up and lost over 5kilos since starting our adventures. Our feet are so mean we saw through socks and blisters are a thing of the past. And our time has included some super-high altitude action, hitting 6300m at one point. We've also carried our full packs every 3-5 days at least to take them to the next bus, rail, boat, plane, or rickshaw. So we ascended breathless but in good spirits. One of our group, the youngest and a super-fit eager Californian of 20years, had almost run to the pass to get the glory of being first there. 

Mhairi hugs another man with joy at reaching the pass...

As we breached the top, there was much high-fiving and hugging as we fed off of the American's infectious enthusiasm. We settled in to enjoy the view. It was a long time before the rest joined us though. The Swedish couple with us had really struggled to cope with the altitude. Their slow and blue-lipped ascent was monitored by our guide and two Canadians, one a paramedic and the other an a&e nurse. With a high level of fitness, the Swedes would rally easily on day 3 at more human heights, but for the rest of day 2 it would be a careful pace.

View back from Dead Woman´s Pass at 4200m

Mercifully for all of us, porters were carrying our tents and all the food, and then cooking up huge meals to sustain us for breakfast, lunch and dinner. As we set off in the morning they would start to strike camp. They would easily overtake us mid-morning, often running the downhills, often in flip-flops but always with at least 25kilos on their back. They'd set up a lunch tent for us at midday, and then perform the same overtaking action mid-afternoon to get ahead of us for the evening camp. On day 2 in particular we all badly needed the very late lunch after our slow ascent, but without their help every day the trail would have been much slower and almost impossible without proper training, given all the extra food weight we'd each have had to carry.
By this time, the views were also getting properly epic. All of the mountain ranges we've visited have been unique and the Andes had a special verdant and lustrous hue, with searing white peaks sometimes rising as if from nowhere. The weight of the green is deep and dense against a fast moving sky which sends cloud shadows scudding across mountain slopes. The direct sunlight can wash out the colours, and frequent rain showers greyed the landscape. But at dawn and dusk in particular, the crepuscular light breathed a magic into the landscape: and the Incan ruins, the most modern structures in our view, stood proudly against the gigantic scale of the nature surrounding them.

It was excellent fortune for us that a third Canadian in our group had a passion for photography. His generosity saw all of us improve our shots and get the most out of our cameras, while his off-beat humour kept us entertained. With the difficulties of day 2 behind us, and together at the campsite above the clouds, the group had gelled and even Ramiro was moved to laughter as we talked over dinner.


Day 3 saw us make rolling ascents and descents at a good pace across the more humid side of the mountains, where a more jungle feel to the trail took hold. The scale of Incan ruins increased dramatically, as if sensing the approach to our final destination. The path led us ever onwards - amazing to think that over 90% of the trail we'd walked, with its cut steps, rock tunnel passages, and laid stones was original from the Incans' time. One last heave up the monkey stairs - so named because their steep angle pushes you to climb them on all fours - and we reached the Sun Gate, the breakthrough pass that sits due East of Macchu Picchu and transports the dawn's first early rays down onto the mountain citadel. We took in our own first glimpse of the incredible city: the breath-taking view stayed with us as we descended down the last part of the trail. As we came closer, Macchu Picchu's form and shape grew in complexity - the extent of the walls, the size and number of the farm terraces, the quality of the stone work: it is an amazing feat of engineering set amidst an awesome landscape.

Lords of Macchu Picchu, at the Sun Gate.

A brief photo shoot and some time to drink in the view were all we had on Day 3. We'd pushed the schedule to reach Macchu Picchu early as our tour agency, Inca Reservations, had concerns about the safety of the last campsite after a landslide in 2012 had killed a tourist. So we sped on to Aguas Calientes and spent a slightly odd night in a restaurant where our porters first cooked, then gratefully took their tips: and then the next morning gleefully woke us up at 4am with torches to drag us out of our darkened sleeping bags arranged on the restaurant floor, in order that we make it back to the mountain top for sunrise. After Mhairi had regained her composure - early starts not one of her special skills and men wielding flashlights the wrong way to approach the deficiency - we headed up for the sunrise view.

Dawn breaks on Macchu Picchu ruins

Ramiro went through more and more detail on each aspect of the ruins. A simple rock proved to be a compass. A large rock was actually a scale model of the surrounding mountains. Indeed, the Incas were the kings of rock.... Well before BonJovi (sorry, couldn't resist).Ramiro's exhaustive tour filled our imaginations and we were surprised when he finished and it was only 8am. Mhairi and I took some hours to enjoy the site on our own. We then headed down for some well deserved pizza and beer, before a trip to the eponymous thermal baths of Aguas Calientes, where we bathed carefully in tepid milky water that probably sees too many sweaty trekkers and bathing locals to be called a luxury experience.

Macchu Picchu

Did it deliver? Absolutely. Was it worth it? Yes. Should you go? Yes. Even those that struggled most in our group physically ultimately enjoyed the sense of achievement. And the up-close concentrated experience with Incan history is totally unique. To be so advanced in some ways, and rule the largest pre-industrial empire without horses or any draft animals for ploughing, without inventing writing but having a sophisticated accounting system using knotted and coloured string... It is something that every Western head should be forced to look at when we sit and think we've defined how the world works, and that it is the only way things could work.


Back in Cusco we sprung for dinner and drinks in the city and finally (having been rained off pre-inca trail) we made it to Saqsaywaman. Peeved at the high entry cost, and more so when we realised there was zero information and that you could probably sneak in, the size of the massive stones still reverberated the awe that we'd experienced from the Inca trail and the site gave us our last long look at Cusco from above. We just couldn't get enough of the Incas now, so we packed our bags for Copacabana on Lake Titicaca - gateway to Isla del Sol, the birthplace of the Inca religion.

View of Cusco from Saqsaywaman

The Facts

- You can't do the classic Inca Trail independently. The independent option is the Jungle Trail which takes another route to Aguas Calientes. Cheaper tours this way are offered by Agencies in Cusco too.

- We did the 4 day three night package available through Inca Trail Reservations. They were great: other companies like SAS and Peak are also good.

- We paid 500 USD each. Any less and apparently the porters are getting a poor wage to keep costs down.

- Look through the options when booking. Most companies offer tickets for Waynapicchu at that time. They are virtually impossible to get when at Macchu Picchu, so if you want to climb it, book in advance. What is Waynapicchu? Click here.

- Altitude sickness... Is no joke. On our tour, one person arrived in Cusco with three days to go and couldnt acclimatise in time. She and her partner missed the trek. Another couple made the trek but really suffered on Day 2's climb. Again they'd flown Lima to Cusco with three days to acclimatise. Fitness is not an indicator - in fact, low blood pressure can make a person more prone to dizzyness and headaches. The best option is to bus from Lima to Arequipa and spend some days there first. Arequipa is an awesome city with a lot going on at 2400m. This will prepare you for the climb to 3600 in Cusco. Buses in Peru have improved a lot but in the rainy season there can still be landslides so allow time for delays.

- Tips. Everyone says tipping is not compulsory, but it is overwhelmingly expected. For our trip we had ten porters, including one cook, plus our guide. We tipped 60 soles per porter, the chef got double at 120 and our guide about the same. There was some discussion of more for the guide at 200 soles, but it didnt pan out that way. 1 sol: £0.25: $0.38 Also, you'll be expected to introduce yourself during the trek (and the porters will introduce their selves too) and to say thank you at the end during the ceremony where tips are given. The guide will arrange both of these sessions. Think about what you might say - everyone appreciates a bit of Spanish.

- Other costs: a porter costs around 100 soles per day to carry your rucksack. If you can't decide then try Day 1. If you find it in anyway tough, then bite the bullet and pay for Day 2 which is much longer and harder. Day 3 can be long or short depending on your tour, but the porter rate stays the same. The bus up and down from Macchu Picchu to Aguas Calientes is 9 USD and you can pay in Soles. One trip down will be included for you in the tour, but if you push the pace to have more time at Macchu Picchu then extra trips will be on your own dime. Finally there are ladies selling chocolate, Gatorade, and even beer if you want it. They also sell toilet paper which you will need if you don't bring your own. Aguas Calientes has many ways for you to spend your money of course, mostly on overpriced pizza.

- What To Bring. Porters carry all food and tents. You'll be given a sleeping mat to carry yourself at the start of the trek so leave space. If you carry it outside your rucksack, bring a black binliner to keep it dry. Poles are on offer from all tour companies. They are generally cheaper to hire from the numerous trekking agencies in Cusco rather then when you book. If you don't normally use poles then they are a burden; I took one pole in the end for the steep downhills on day 2. Others swear by two poles all the time. It gets very cold at night at high altitude (especially so in dry season) and no fires are allowed on the trail, so overpack on warm clothes for the evening. There is nowhereto charge camera batteries on the way, so bring a spare. And if you prefer trail mix, nuts and dried fruit etc. then bring that to snack on: the tour will give you ample sweet snacks and you can buy more on the route (chocolate etc.) but the emphasis is on calories only and the variety is limited. The porters can boil water for you if you want it, but on our tour most preferred to use puritabs and drink cold water from streams/taps as it was more refreshing. Other than that, usual sense applies: waterproofs, strong shoes, blister treatments, sun protection et. al. Oh, and unless you're super-energetic and an entire day's hiking doesn't wear you out, then a book is weight you can do without!